I've had Sunday dinner with Peter's mother's ex lodgers family. It was really nice, I had the traditional Hungarian fish soup and then more fish for the main course. Peter was bitched at for not liking aquatic meat; I think this is justified since it was really tasty. The meal lasted about 3 hours which is much longer than your normal English Sunday dinner. After that we went out and put English teaching posters all over the ELTE student district.
The decision to have an early night was made since we had to be up at
Skin-heads were dotted amongst the crowd trying to perpetuate the violence and stretch the tension. And it doesn't take much for it to snap. Especially in
A large crowd moved towards Corvin cinema. Anti government chants were called out in the wide streets of inner-Budapest. We marched down the middle of the road while cars were spinning round, then racing back into the opposite direction. I was at the front of all this snapping away at the mob behind. We jumped up onto telephone boxes and anything else that gave a good vantage point. The cinema is of symbolic importance, lots of people were killed there in '56.
The protesting really only got serious when we went back into the breach, after going home for some much needed food. We'd met with Peter's friend Gáspár earlier and he'd warned us that the police will use violence indiscriminately. We needed to be really careful.
We first went to Deák Ferenc tér, where the protestors had commandeered the soviet ear tank:
It was desolate except for the police blockades, piles of stones, rubber bullets and tear gas shells. We decided to try and find a way to
A stale mate was reached, so the next port of call was the parliament building. We went along the right bank of the
The gas rolled down the escalator as we ascend into the violent streets above. This was causing everyone to leave the station with red, tearful eyes. We didn't know that on ground level the situation we had left had reached a new level of danger. The protesters had ripped down the scaffolding and grabbed building materials. Within 30minutes they'd erected a crude but sinister looking barricade.
We met some American and/or Canadian guys and also a crazy German medic student called "Len" who, whenever the police shot tear gas at us, would shout at people not to run. In his bag he showed us a tear gas canister he’d grabbed and various plastic bullets:
He was drunk. And walking around listening to music and laughing at the situation. Brilliantly, he was able to speak perfect English. He called me "Lord Extra". This was some sort of German 'joke' which I didn't understand. Typically, I was asked about how to drink tea correctly and why we "force" people to sit down and have a cup of tea at
Later on, as all Americans do those amongst us did utter them well-trodden words: "it's not the LA riots". I think this is law for yanks: any public disturbance must, at some point, be compared to the riots in
I walked back to Deák Ferenc Tér with some member of the anti-communist league. They spoke perfect English, and were asking me if anything like the brutality of the police would happen in
I started walking back towards Deák Ferenc Tér when I lost the English speaking anti-communist members. I walked past the basilica and saw the police, one of them shouted to see my camera. I said I was English and my camera was broken. I got out of their sight and removed the memory card, put it in my shoe and placed an empty CF card back into the camera. This way if they smashed the camera they'd not smash my images.
I asked some more protesters for directions and walked up towards Westend shopping centre. I stopped in at an open Internet cafe and tried to buy a phone card. Failed at it. So I changed a note into coins. When I tried to call Peter the line would not connect. Today we've realised it was due to the police, they may well have shut down the mobile network to stop anymore protests organising a new stand-off.
I was dying of thirst, when I came to an open pub I went in and had an ice-tea and some crisps. I sat down and started to worry about Peter. My plan of action was to get back to the flat and use Skype to call him. I hoped he'd be trying to get home as well.
I stole some police tape on the way back - I needed more souvenirs! I was told to go around a long way round to get back home. This was what the authorities were shouting at me, but then when I explained I was English and was trying to get to Angyalföld and they just waved me past.
I saw one of the protest leaders on the way back - I said good evening and told him he'd been on the BBC.
It took me about an hour and a bit to walk back from Westend. I got to the flat and saw the light was on. I presumed that Peter had left it on to deter burglars. But thankfully I'd saved myself £5 to use Skype out due to Peter making an appearance in the little window in the flat door.
PETER'S STORY AFTER WE WERE SEPARATED
At about
I soon hit a clump of rioters on the riverbank, some of which were running around, shouting, crying from the tear gas and bleeding all over the place. I called Philip and asked him if he was OK, to which he replied "Yes I'm OK", then the line was cut off and I just got forwarded to his voice mail when I tried to call again. My options were now:
North - Police blockades around the parliament
East - The police who had just tried to beat me
South - The main riot
West - The
After roaming the streets for some time, it became clear that the police were only letting cars out, but no people. Even then, quite a lot of cars were being turned back. We tried to flag down a few cars, but most just drove on. Finally, one stopped and agreed to drive us home. We were turned back quite a few times, but eventually we were allowed through one of the barricades. It was all going smoothly until our driver drove us straight into Deák Ferenc Tér where we again got stuck behind barricades. We spent a good half an hour in the car, the police knocking on the windows and asking questions, and Gergő discussing theology with the driver. I had thought for a minute that Gergő was going to use me for a sex game and burn me in the bath (as Robert Webb once said), but his religious views cleared all such thoughts.
We did, finally, get home at about
We rejoiced and drank tea. Actually, we didn’t, but we really should have. Gergő couldn’t eat anything due to his broken teeth, so tea would have been perfect. Then we all went to bed. And don’t worry, Plews, I didn’t cheat on you - Gergő slept on the couch.
- Philip + Peter
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